Gourmet Faux Gras with Shitake and Cognac: An Elevated Chicken Liver Pâté Recipe

Featured in the Wall Street Journal: Our Faux Gras Recipe!
The Culinary Journey: From Inspiration to Innovation
Every home chef dreams of creating dishes that not only impress but also delight the palate. For many, a cookbook can be both a guide and a muse. I remember the day I acquired Michel Richard’s “Happy in the Kitchen.” It instantly became my go-to for culinary inspiration, a veritable feast for the eyes filled with inventive techniques and lush food photography. Yet, for the longest time, it remained primarily an aesthetic pleasure. The exquisite dishes seemed so perfect on the page that I feared any attempt to recreate them would only lead to a pale, disappointing imitation.
This apprehension created a peculiar, one-sided relationship with the cookbook. I was content to admire its brilliance from afar, soaking in the beautiful recipes without daring to disturb their perfection. That is, until a recent Memorial Day weekend, when a familiar craving sparked a bold new culinary ambition.
Rediscovering a Classic: The Allure of Chicken Faux Gras
The dish that called to me was Michel Richard’s ingenious Chicken Faux Gras. This creamy pâté spread, crafted from humble chicken liver, is a brilliant play on words and a clever nod to the extravagant, duck-liver-based foie gras. Richard himself eloquently describes it as, “Absolutely the creamiest thing on earth. If you don’t tell people what it is, they will think it is Foie Gras and that you are an extravagant host.” His words capture the essence of this dish perfectly: a luxurious experience without the hefty price tag or ethical concerns often associated with its genuine counterpart.
In my previous attempts, I had adhered strictly to Richard’s instructions, measuring and timing every step with meticulous precision. But this time, a spark of culinary rebellion ignited within me. A quiet whisper questioned, “What if I added shitake mushrooms, a hint of fresh parsley, and a splash of rich Cognac?” The idea was too tempting to resist. With a conspiratorial glance towards my revered cookbook, now safely back on its shelf, I embarked on a delightful deviation.
A Delicious Deviation: Elevating the Faux Gras with Shitake and Cognac
And yes, I “cheated.” I ventured beyond the original recipe, and the result was nothing short of spectacular. The Faux Gras tasted incredibly good, so good in fact, that I vowed to continue my culinary experimentation without an ounce of guilt. The addition of finely diced shitake mushrooms introduced an earthy depth and a subtle textural contrast, while the Cognac infused the pâté with a warming, sophisticated aroma and flavor that elevated it to new heights. Fresh parsley brightened the entire profile, adding a herbaceous note that perfectly balanced the richness.
My culinary fling was met with widespread acclaim. Paired with a Perfect Loaf of French Bread, it was an instant hit. The ultimate testament to its deliciousness came at 1:30 AM, when I found myself tiptoeing back to the kitchen for a sneaky midnight snack – with my husband as a willing witness to my indulgence. This Faux Gras isn’t just a dish; it’s an experience, a moment of pure, unadulterated culinary joy.

Unlocking the Secrets to a Flawless Faux Gras
Crafting this exquisite Faux Gras is simpler than you might imagine, but a few key details can transform it from good to truly exceptional. Here are the secrets I’ve uncovered through my own culinary adventures:
The Ethical and Economical Advantage: Faux Gras vs. Foie Gras
Let’s be clear: this Faux Gras is creamy, rich, and wonderfully addictive. While it doesn’t precisely replicate the unique, almost meltingly fatty texture of authentic foie gras, it offers a truly magnificent substitute. Beyond its deliciousness, it presents a compelling advantage: affordability. What might cost upwards of $70 a pound for foie gras can be achieved for a mere fraction of that using readily available chicken livers and mushrooms. More importantly, it provides a guilt-free indulgence, allowing us to enjoy a similar luxurious experience without supporting the controversial practices sometimes associated with foie gras production.
The Art of Preparation: Cleaning Chicken Livers
Perhaps the most crucial step for a smooth, flavorful pâté lies in the meticulous cleaning of the chicken livers. You won’t find many photos of this process, and for good reason—raw liver isn’t exactly photogenic! However, it’s vital to remove any dark, bloody spots and, most importantly, the thin, white connective membrane. This membrane can introduce a stringy texture and a slightly metallic taste if left behind. Take your time with this step; a clean liver is the foundation of a sublime pâté. And as a friendly reminder, resist the urge to lick your fingers during this particular prep work!
The Power of Personalization: Infusing Flavor and Texture
While the original recipe yields a beautifully smooth pâté, I found myself longing for a little more depth and textural intrigue. This is where the inspiration to add Cognac and finely chopped shitake mushrooms came from. The shitake provides an earthy umami and a pleasant chew, while the Cognac adds a layer of warmth and complexity. If you happen to have access to truffles, they would be an absolutely decadent addition, though certainly not required. Don’t have shitake? Don’t hesitate to experiment with other varieties of mushrooms like cremini or finely chopped portobello for a similar effect. Culinary exploration is encouraged!
Efficiency in the Kitchen: Gourmet Made Easy
Despite its sophisticated flavor profile, this Faux Gras is remarkably easy to make. The active preparation time in the kitchen clocks in at around 30 minutes. The primary wait time is for chilling, which is essential for the pâté to set properly – ideally several hours or even overnight. Compare this to purchasing a small 5 oz. slice of pâté from a gourmet grocer for $8 or more. For just $3-$4 in chicken livers and mushrooms, you can create a generous batch that easily feeds a party of 20. It’s an incredible value for a truly gourmet spread.

The Refreshing Touch: Parsley Gelée
Do not be tempted to skip the gelée layer! The delicate cucumber-parsley gelée serves multiple purposes: it adds a stunning visual contrast with its vibrant green hue, provides a refreshing counterpoint to the rich pâté, and acts as a protective seal, preventing air from oxidizing the Faux Gras and turning it grayish. The cucumber water is incredibly light and delightful, offering a cleansing palate experience with each bite. I’m already envisioning countless other exciting applications for this versatile cucumber gelée in future culinary creations.

Faux Gras with Shitake and Cognac Recipe
Inspired by Michel Richard’s “Happy in the Kitchen,” this recipe creates a luxurious chicken liver pâté, enhanced with earthy shitake mushrooms and rich Cognac. This Faux Gras can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and requires several hours to chill and set properly, making it an ideal make-ahead appetizer for any occasion. Yields 4 individual 1-cup ramekins or one elegant terrine.
Pin Recipe
Ingredients
For the Pâté:
- 2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature (equivalent to 16 ounces)
- ¾ cup finely chopped yellow onions
- 2 cloves garlic, minced (pressed or finely grated)
- ½ cup heavy cream
- 1 pound chicken livers, thoroughly rinsed and any dark spots or stringy connective membranes removed
- 1 teaspoon fine sea salt (or 2 teaspoons kosher salt)
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- ½ cup finely diced shitake mushrooms (¼” cubes or smaller)
- 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh Italian parsley
- 2 tablespoons Cognac
For the Parsley Gelée:
- ½ English cucumber, cut into 2″ pieces
- 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin powder
- 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
- Pinch of sea salt
- 1-2 drops Tabasco sauce (or to taste)
- 2-3 tablespoons finely minced fresh Italian parsley
Instructions
Preparing the Faux Gras Pâté:
- Preheat your oven to 300°F (150°C).
- Sauté the Mushrooms: In a medium saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the unsalted butter over medium heat. Add the finely diced shitake mushrooms and sauté for about 1 minute, until they are soft and lightly cooked. Stir in the finely minced parsley. Pour in the Cognac and let it simmer for 30 seconds, allowing the alcohol to cook off and the flavors to meld. Transfer this mixture to a small bowl and set aside.
- Cook the Aromatics: Clean the saucepan and return it to the stove. Add 2 tablespoons of butter and set the heat to medium. Once the butter begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low and add the finely chopped onions. Cover the saucepan and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the minced garlic, sea salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Continue to sauté for a minute until the garlic becomes fragrant. Pour in the heavy cream and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for another 5 minutes. Finally, add all of the remaining butter (1 stick + 5 tablespoons) and stir until it has completely melted. Turn off the heat.
- Purée the Pâté Base: Place the cleaned chicken livers into a blender. Pulse a few times until the livers are partially smooth. Add the cooked onion and cream mixture to the blender. Puree on high speed for 2 minutes, or until the mousse is exceptionally pale in color and perfectly smooth. For the silkiest texture, strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, using the back of a spoon to press all the solids through. You should aim for approximately 3 cups of strained mousse. If you have less, return any remaining solids to the blender and puree again to extract more.
- Bake and Chill: Gently fold the sautéed shitake and Cognac mixture into the strained liver mousse, ensuring the mushrooms are evenly distributed. Divide the pâté into four 1-cup ramekin dishes. Cover each ramekin tightly with aluminum foil and place them in a large, deep baking dish, ensuring they do not touch each other. Carefully pour enough boiling water into the baking dish to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins, creating a bain-marie. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the ramekins to cool completely to room temperature before transferring them to the refrigerator to chill thoroughly. The pâté needs to be well-chilled before applying the gelée.
Crafting the Refreshing Parsley Gelée:
- Prepare Cucumber Water: Place the 2-inch pieces of English cucumber into a food processor and process until completely liquefied. Strain the cucumber liquid through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing firmly to extract all the juice. Alternatively, you can use a double thickness of cheesecloth to squeeze out the liquid. You should yield about ½ cup of fresh cucumber water.
- Activate Gelatin: In a microwave-safe bowl, combine the unflavored gelatin powder with ¼ cup of the prepared cucumber water. Microwave briefly, just until the gelatin is melted and fully dissolved (do not allow it to boil). Stir well. Add the fresh lemon juice, granulated sugar, a pinch of sea salt, and 1-2 drops of Tabasco sauce (adjust to your preference). Stir in the remaining cucumber water. Finally, incorporate the finely minced Italian parsley, adding a tablespoon at a time until the gelée appears dense with parsley but the vibrant green of the cucumber water is still visible.
- Assemble and Serve: Retrieve the chilled Faux Gras ramekins from the refrigerator. Carefully spoon approximately 2 tablespoons of the prepared gelée mixture on top of each ramekin, creating an even layer. Return the ramekins to the refrigerator and chill for at least 1 hour, or until the gelée is firmly set. Before serving, allow the Faux Gras to stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to ensure optimal texture and flavor. The gelée not only provides a beautiful green contrast but also serves as a protective layer, preventing the pâté from oxidizing and turning grayish. Enjoy this elegant and flavorful appetizer!
Notes

Creative Serving Ideas & Further Culinary Exploration
Once you’ve mastered this delightful Faux Gras with Shitake and Cognac, the possibilities for serving and further culinary exploration are endless. Here are some inspiring ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
- Serve it with a selection of artisan crackers, toasted baguette slices, or as originally suggested, with a perfect loaf of fresh French bread.
- Pair it with cornichons, pickled onions, or a sweet and tangy fruit preserve like fig jam or apricot chutney to cut through the richness.
- Seasonal Variations: Consider making a cranberry gelée instead of the cucumber/parsley version for a festive holiday touch. Or experiment with a beet gelée for an earthy, vibrant alternative.
- Unexpected Pairings: For a truly unconventional treat, try smearing Faux Gras between two warm waffles, à la Brilynn’s inventive style.
- Elegant Presentations: Slice the chilled pâté and serve it alongside molasses gingerbread with candied ginger, a sophisticated pairing reminiscent of La Tartine Gourmande’s creations.
- Seared Faux Gras: For an even more authentic foie gras experience, try omitting the gelée and searing slices of the pâté in a hot pan until a delicate crust forms. Serve it with a deep, dark cherry-chocolate reduction – this could truly mimic the luxurious taste and texture of real foie gras!
- Repurposing Leftovers: Don’t let any leftover Faux Gras go to waste. Use it to elevate other dishes, much like Cookthink’s inspiration for using it with pork loin (though here, it could be a fantastic topping for roasted vegetables or a rich sandwich spread).
- Wine Pairings: This rich pâté pairs beautifully with sweet wines like Sauternes or a late-harvest Riesling. For dry options, a crisp Champagne or a light-bodied Pinot Noir can also complement its flavors.
